Walk 165

Argour to Lochaline 32miles

A very big walk today as there is not much sign of life between these two points, a good example is my first pic below!  The forecast for the first 3-4 hours today was grim and the weatherman didn't let me down.  I had overslept and my alarm had gone off 8 times before I managed to rise up from my slumber, personally I knew the weather was going to be bad and I just didn't want to face it!!!

Mostly today's views!

So I had breakfast, put on my wet weather gear and walked solemnly out of the front door, it was lashing down and I thought (as it was a 9 hour walk) how am I going to manage if its like this all day?
I trudged along the road stopping at Clovullin for sandwiches and to catch some shelter, the road was quite busy so I thought I could always cadge a lift and come back and walk this section another day.  The rain continued and at Inversanda I reached a pivotal point because I had to turn left along the B8043 which is a single track road with no escape route!. I stood under some trees for a minute just trying to get my head around how wet I was and what would happen if I continued along what was a very traffic free road, I decided to just go for it and continued on in the rain.
                      The B8043 started to climb which was just making things worse! when I got to the top of the hill I looked back and saw a vehicle turn onto the road I was on....what a bonus, I could thumb a lift to wherever they were going and come back another day, however the pick up truck just stopped and I kept looking back thinking it will come along soon but no.... arrrrgh!!! eventually I stopped looking backwards and concentrated on going forwards!! and the weirdest thing happened, the rain started to relent and by the time I reached  the river crossing at Coire Mheall Challuim it had stopped at which point the pick up truck came along side me and stopped to ask if I wanted a lift, " No Thanks" I replied, but we had a good chat anyway and they were soon on their way.  The B8043 took me along to the only real settlement at Kingairloch where I met up again with my friendly council workers who were doing some running repairs on the culverts by the side of the road, I stopped for a quick chat and then I was on my way at which point the sun decided to make an appearance at last!! The road winds in and out of the glens and it was fantastic to see young Bucks chasing Does across the fields I just which I could get my camera out in time.

Loch Uisge

Eventually the B8043 meets up with the road I started on earlier on in the day (A884) and with Beinn Chlaonleud on my right hand side I wound my way through many a glen stopping only to take in the fabulous views and marvel at the remoteness of where I was standing.  The A884 soon took me to today's destination at Lochaline and I was surprised at how I felt after such a long days walking, even the landlady of the hotel commented that I looked great for someone who had walked so far.

Accommodation:  The Lochaline Hotel.  Really nice hotel with great views of the Isle of Mull from the bedroom window £37.50 BnB

Walk 164

North Shian to Corran/Argour 22.5miles

The day started off with a bit of good news as I had found out that the footbridge across Loch Laich was open.  The footbridge is known as The Jubilee bridge as it was built in honour of Queen Victoria's Diamond jubilee in 1897,  it has had to be restored quite a few times the latest was the back end of 2013/ early 2014, so I was really pleased to be able to cross as you get a great views of Castle Stalker and the surrounding mountains from the middle.

Castle Stalker

Once across the bridge I picked up the disused railway cyclepath this took me alongside the Isle of Shuna, leading eventually to the A828 and the long slog up to Duror where at least the cyclepath skirts around the village, but its short lived and the road hugs the coast all the way to the bridge at North Ballachlish, not long after the rain really started to lash it down so the ferry at Corran couldn't come quick enough.

Accommodation: The Inn at Argour.  Really nice but my room was next to the road where the ferry lands so I was awoken every time the ferry arrived, didn't stop me oversleeping though!!! £49.50 BnB

Walk 163

Oban to North Shian 20.5miles

Today started in full wet weather gear again, what is it with Scotland and rain?

Port Mor Lighthouse and Castle (in background)

So I ate breakfast at the cafe suggested by my guest house and then I wound my merry way through the streets of Oban.  Today was a mixed bag of cycle paths, main roads and single track road.

First up was Port Mor with its mini lighthouse and lovely castle, this was a single track road taking me down to the small village of Ganavan with its brand new white houses and for the first time for a while an actual sandy beach! the road soon ran out and was replaced by a brand new cycle path, this cyclepath is part of an initative to link up Oban and Fort William with one continuous safe path for cyclists and walkers alike, its still very fragmented but will be great once finished. The cyclepath ran out at Dunbeg which lies in Dunstaffnage Bay with its splendid castle and Marine Science Centre, the next couple of miles were along the busy A85 and boy was it busy! this in turn led to the bridge crossing at Connel.

Connel Bridge

As I was crossing the Connel bridge the rain and wind really picked up and I was in a "nowhere to run nowhere to hide" situation so I just gritted my teeth and put my head down and walked quickly, fortunately the bridge is only a few hundred yards long!  Once over the bridge I picked up the No78 cycle path again which took me past the very quiet Oban Airport (who knew Oban had an airport?) not a single plane arrived or left whilst I walked parallel all the way to the end of the runway.  The cycle path soon turned into a muddy disused railway line taking me all the way to Benderloch, I stopped for lunch at Benderloch and got chatting to an elderly lady who told me how as a child she used to walk along the railway track, its really nice to hear  stories from local people.  I was back on the busy A828 again but at least the sign warned me of the fact that the cycle path would restart again in 2 miles very considerate of them to tell me! The cycle path started again at the Sealife Centre on the banks of Loch Creran, this took me through the forest eventually coming out at the bridge at South Creagan.

Super Seal

I crossed the bridge at South Creagan without any drama as the rain had finally relented, a mile or so later I turned down the very quiet road towards Port Appin and my BnB for the night at North Shian.

Accommodation: Cruachan BnB, North Shian. Very comfortable and the owner will give you a lift to the      local restaurant in Port Appin free of charge! £35.00

Walk 162

Ardfern to Oban  30miles

The day started with a climb out of Ardfern and within 10 mins I was faced with a cow in the middle of the road, and a large one too! This was Highland cattle country, I carefully negotiated my way around the beast trying not to make any sudden moves or eye contact, it looked very disinterested in me which is always a good thing!

 

 

 

 

 

Highland Cow!

I made my way up and over the hill through yet another forest eventually arriving in Craobh Haven, which is a pretty little marina on the banks of Loch Melfort.

Craobh Haven

The track I was following soon turned into road and I was left struggling my way around the coast trying not to get run over, passing by Asknish Bay and Kames Bay on the way.  Eventually I turned down a small track which took me around the top of Loch Melfort and through its namesake village, the track swept through Fernach bay heading towards Dognish, I stopped for lunch opposite the small Isle of Eilean Coltair which was just lovely and the sun tried valiantly to make an appearance!

Me and my crisps at Eilean Coltair!

Just before Dogmish the track takes a complete U turn and I started to head upwards eventually arriving at an unknown peak (173 meters up), this is where things got a little strange as just after the peak of the hill there is a blackened tree stump which is fenced off and has many coins jammed into its crevasses, I have since tried to find out more about this bizarre phenomenon, but have hit a dead end as the internet seems to provide no explanation!

Anyhow I headed downhill towards Caddleton, on my left was the Island of Seil; I walked parallel with this very close island for a few miles before meeting up with the busy A816 again which took me around Loch Feochan, The rain started just before Kilmory on this busy road, so I plodded on miserably for the last 5 miles until reaching Oban. However my sogginess was not complete until a very unkind motorist decided to hit the puddle I was standing by whilst trying to cross the road. Despite this when the weather cleared Oban was revealed to be a lovely, bustling town, dispatching many a ferry to the outlying islands.

Accommodation: Ivercloy Guest House, Ardconnel St, Oban. This Guest House is room only. The owner Fiona is lovely and cant do enough for here guests, I was able to get breakfast from a local cafe with a 10% discount if you mention where you were staying. £30.00

Walk 161

Barnluasgan to Ardfern 26.5miles

Tayvallich

Last night I was in a lot of pain from my right knee, and I thought that I might have to go home and give up this week of walking, however when I awoke on Sunday morning the fluid lump had disappeared and though it was sore my knee was fine, Phew!

The walk began with a 5 mile walk along the bank of Caol Scotnish with forest on my right and Loch on my left, this eventually led to Tayvallich which is a pretty little village that at least has a pub that is open!  At Tayvallich I turned right towards Carsaig and an even prettier bay unfortunately due to the appalling weather there seemed little or no point taking a photo, this sadly was to become a theme for the whole 8 days :(

After Carsaig the road turns to track and takes you up and up into a forest, this is a designated cycle route and so I decided to follow the signs.......BIG mistake the path I took was completely wrong and I ended up more or less where I had started 4 hours before!!! I have vowed now to buy a GPS as this scenario could be dangerous if I'm lost on a mountain somewhere and the weather closes in!!

So I eventually I made it to where I should have been many hours before crossing the Crinan Canal. After crossing the canal I picked up the road to Kilmartin where I popped into the the local pub for some liquid refreshment and the owner asked what I was up to, so I told him I was walking to Ardfern, he then suggested the best route was the "old drovers road" and he showed me on the map, however as I pointed out this route shows on the map ending in a forest over yonder! "No" he said you can get though the last mile and a half just by following your nose.......somehow I don't think so! I continued along a fairly busy road  eventually arriving at the point where the guy in the pub said I would come out if I followed the path he suggested, I had made the right decision! as there was obviously no easy way through which is why on the map the track finishes 11/2 before the road, I was so relived especially after the day I'd had.
The main road took me around the top of Loch Craignish and I turned left onto the B8002 to Ardfern where today's walk finished.

Accommodation: The Galley of Lorne. Ardfern.  A really nice pub/hotel, the room was very nice but bizarrely it didn't have a window!  The food was fantastic as they've gone a little up market. £45.50 B&B

Loch Craignish

Walk 160

Achahoish to Barnluasgan 21Miles

Its Saturday so I'm having to use taxis to get to and from my start/finish point as the buses in these parts are pretty non existent on a weekend!

Ellary

The start of the walk takes me up and around the top of Loch Caolisport and eventually dropping down along the opposite bank of the Loch at Ellary, here I had to leave the road walking for a while and moved onto farm track which was a little easier on the feet.  There is a large estate at Ellary with a big house to compliment the estate, and a very big hill to climb! I hadn't seen one this big for quite a while and it took me 2 attempts to get to the top as I had to stop halfway up to catch my breath or as I like to think in my mind "admire the view"!  Once over the top it was pretty plain sailing all the way to Kilmory which is a nice Hamlet complete with chapel ruin.  I now picked up the Island of Danna on my left and also Loch Sween this lead onto Castle Sween. So its now time for a Rant......At Castle Sween ( which is very picturesque sitting on the bank of its own Loch) some idiot has decided to put a static caravan park in the grounds of the castle! what a bloody peasant! really they could have put it anywhere but right next to a National Monument, who is this planner that let this happen? take him outside and have him shot I say!!!

The rest of the walk up to Barnlusgan was through a lot of forest via Achnamara and Strone eventually arriving at my taxi pick up point at the forestry commission office 1/2 hour ahead of schedule, however once I had stopped my right knee really started to hurt and there was a large amount of fluid in a lump just below the kneecap and I thought uh oh this is not good.

Accommodation: The Stag Hotel Lochgilphead. Just recently refurbished so everything was very new and comfortable, however the noise from the street was unbelievable with the local youths keeping me awake well into the small hours using the main street as a race track, so if you want a good nights sleep best to avoid this one! £36.00 B&B

Walk 159

Tarbert to Achahoish 24miles

Finally after a 3 hour coach journey from Glasgow I arrived at my start point in Tarbert. The mist/drizzle was falling fast (Mizzle!) as I strode purposely up the hill out of Tarbert,  I say "purposely" as this is my first day of a 8 day walking holiday, and that's how they all start at the beginning!
I turned right onto the B8024 and thankfully even though today (and what seems most of my 8 days) is road walking the road I am walking along is only single track with passing places for drivers, so no need to worry about "boy racers" on this little road.

Point of Knap

The road follows the north bank of Loch Tarbert through many small hamlets like Torinturk and Avinagillan, eventually the road veers right towards Kilberry which looks as though its the biggest settlement on this road today and it actually has a pub....even though its closed for the winter but today it re opens Hooray.....at 6.30pm Boooo!, So I perch myself on the grit bin outside of the pub to eat my lunch in the hope they may take pity on me, but they don't!  Kilberry has its own castle but I "pass" as its another mile on today's long journey.  The journey eventually runs along Loch Caolisport where I can see where I will be walking tomorrow on the Point of Knap, this leads nicely to the school at Achahoish where I finish for the day and wait in the cold for my bus to Ardisaig.

Accommodation: The Argyll Hotel, Ardisaig.  Very nice and comfortable, the bed even had an electric blanket which had already been switched on! £30.00 B&B